Day Twenty-three : storm-bound in Dittisham

We clear off the Town Quay by 0830 (because you have to make way for the ferries which operate during the day) and motor up the River Dart towards Dittisham. Gales are forecast in sea areas Plymouth, Portland and Wight so we're heading in land to avoid the storms over the next couple of days. After finding a mooring, we do some jobs then go ashore for a wander. We discover the Red Lion Inn and stop there for lunch: hake for some, sea bass for others. It's all delicious and very well priced but not the same as catching it ourselves. But we still hadn't caught any sea bass anywhere so paying for it was a justifiable option at this point. Finish with 'thunder and lightening' ice cream which is vanilla ice cream with pieces of honeycomb mixed in.

After a leisurely wander back to the boat, some of the crew still have room for an afternoon tea of scones with clotted cream and strawberry jam. Needless to say that nobody is particularly hungry at supper time, so a light salad with cheese and crackers fits the bill nicely.

The weather is looking truely awful now and we are very glad we are tucked up in Dittisham rather than making an night passage towards Portland.

Day Sixteen : Baltimore

Wind and rain give way to sunshine for our lay day in Baltimore.
The mainsail is collected by courier for repair then we visit the one and only grocery store in town - Gala - and stock up with provisions from a rather limited choice. Prices for basics, such as cheese, are even more expensive than in Crosshaven and again we are left wondering how local people manage. Strangely, there is a wide selection of newspapers and magazines available in French and German as well as English but we find out later that there are well established French and German communities here.

We walk out of town, past abundant bushes of fuschias, towards the headland to get a close-up of Lot's Wife which we missed yesterday from the water. There is an amazing micro climate on the cliffs with marsh plants, such as sedges, on the top of the hills which is quite unusual. We spot some people fishing from the rocks below and wonder firstly, how they got down there and secondly, if they have caught any sea bass. So far, we haven't caught any sea bass but are hopeful that we will before our voyage is over.

Dinner tonight has been arranged at "The Lookout" so a shower is required and some fresh clothes found for the occassion. Showers are at the local pub - Jacob's Bar - and cost 3 euros a time. For this price, I'm expecting Bulgari soap and fluffy white towels, but the showers are in the store room and the tile are cracked and quite dirty. The water is hot and runs for as long as you want so at least it doesn't cut out after 3 minutes or anything. There is no Bulgari soap or fluffy white towels.

About 30 people from the Little Ship Club convene for drinks at The Lookout and we all enjoy a decent meal. Despite consuming a large quantity to fish over the past few weeks, I go for the salmon and mackerel salad to start, followed by the local cod.